Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers
Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. master crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi rabbit, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi unicorn , amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…
Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi, Student Girl Free Crochet Pattern , I want to give you some information about this pattern;
MATERIALS
2mm and 1mm crochet hook.
- Tapestry needle.
- 8 mm safety eyes
- Stuffing
- Pins
- Scissors.
- Stitch marker
- Blush
- Floral wire and thin metallic wire
(optional) - Fabric glue
- A toothpick
- 2x size 9 purple/black beads
ABBREVIATIONS:
MR – Magic ring.
ch – Chain.
st – Stitch
sc – single crochet.
slst – Slip stitch.
hdc – Half double crochet.
dc – Double crochet.
FLO – Front loop only.
BLO – Back loop only.
inc –increase.
dec –decrease.
dc bobble – 3 dc in the same stitch
finished together.
PM– Place the marker.
S– Hair strand.
Puff st – yarn over and insert your hook
into the stitch and pick up a loop. Repeat
this twice more until you have 7 loops on
your hook. Yarn over and go through all
7 loops to finish the puff stitch.
(..)x… – Repeat the stitches between
brackets as many times as indicated.
(x) – Number of stiches of the round.
R – Round or row.
ARMS
(2 pieces, you do not need to stuff them apart from the hand)
In Soft apricot (263)
R1. 6sc MR (6)
R2. 6sc (6)
R3. inc, 1sc, dc bobble, 3sc (7)
R4. 7sc (7) stuff the hand. If you want to add floral wire you
can add it now or use the leftover from the body and insert
it later. Using wire will enable you to move the limbs of your
doll.
R5. dec, 5sc (6)
R6-7. (2 rounds) 6sc (6)
R8. Inc,5sc (7)
R9-10. (2 rounds) 7sc (7)
R11. 3sc, inc, 3sc (8)
R12-17. (6 rounds) 8sc (8) (Pict. 1).
Fasten off the first arm here and add 2sc on the second one before fastening off
too. Leave a small tail. The arms swill be crocheted with the body, but a small tail
might be useful to close any gaps at the joining stage.
LEGS
(Stuff as you go)
In Soft apricot, Catania (263)
ch 5 and start in second ch from the hook.
R1. inc, 2sc, 3sc in the last st. Continue on the other side
of the foundation chain, 3 sc (the last sc is in the same st,
at the inc) (10)
R2. 1 sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 2sc, inc (14)
R3. 14 sc (14)
R4. 7sc, 2x dec, 3sc (12) The dec should be at the front of
the foot for R4, R5.
R5. 5sc, 2x dec, 3sc (10) stuff the foot now.
R6. 2sc, dec, 2sc, 2x dec (7) If you want to add floral wire
you can add it now. I have used one piece per leg, 15-20 cm long.
R7-10. (4 rounds) 7sc (7)
R11. 5sc, puff st, 1sc (7) The puff st creates the knee. Ensure that it is centered over
the front of the foot. You might need to adjust the position according to your crochet
style. (Pict. 2).
R12. 7sc (7)
R13. 2sc, inc PM (4) Here we are shifting the start and thus doing a short row, the
marker should be at the back of the leg.
R14. 7sc, inc (9)
R15. 8sc, inc (10)
R16. 2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc (12)
R17. 12sc (12)
R18. 3sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 3sc (14)
R19. 14sc (14)
R20. 5sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 2sc (16)
R21. 4sc (14) If you fold the leg in half with the knee
in the middle, the last sc should be right at the folding
line (Pict. 3). Fasten off the first leg.
For the second leg repeat exactly the same steps but
crochet 16sc on row 21 instead of 4 and do not
fasten off. If you fold the leg in half with the knee in the middle, your last sc should
be right at the folding line, on the opposite side of the fold as the first leg. Move to
the body section
BODY
Y (Stuff as you go)
Align the legs next to each other, with the
knees facing up. ch 2 and join to the first sc of
the first leg (Pict. 4).
R1. 16 sc around the first leg, 2sc on the chain,
16sc around the second leg and 2 sc on the
chain again. (36)
R2. 11sc, 4xinc, 2xdec, 4xinc, 13sc (42)
R3. 9sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 9sc, dec 10sc (39)
R4. 8sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 9sc (36)
R5. 8sc, dec,16sc, dec, 8sc (34)
R6. 15sc, 2xdec, 15sc (32)
R7. (2sc, dec) x8 (24)
R8-9. (2 rounds) 24sc (24)
R10. 7sc, dec, 9sc, dec,4 sc (22)
R11. 6sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 4sc (24)
R12. 24sc (24)
R13. 21sc PM (21) shift the start of the row
R14. 2sc, 4dc in the same stitch, 3sc, 4dc in the same
stitch, 3sc, dec, 10sc, dec (30)
The 2x 4dc will create the breasts. Ensure they are at the
center of the chest (Pict. 5).
R15. 2sc, 2xhdc dec, 3sc, 2xhdc dec, 17sc (26)
R16. 23sc PM (23) shift the start of the row
Now the arms will be added and crocheted together with
the sc on the body. Place the arms so the thumbs are facing forward and towards
the thigh. You might need to adjust the position of the arms based on your crochet
style. Make sure they are on either side of the breasts (Pict. 6).
R17. 4sc with arm 1, 10sc on body, 4sc with arm 2, 6sc PM (24) shift the start of
the row.
R18. dec last st body with first st arm, 3sc on arm, dec
last st arm with first st body, 8sc body, dec last st body
with first st arm, 3sc on arm, dec last st arm with first st
body, 5sc body (23)
Here I have indicated what looked nice on my doll, you
might want to add/remove decreases to ensure the arms
are joined nicely and that there are no holes. You can
also use the tails from the arms to close any holes or
reinforce the transition too.
R19. (2sc, dec) x5, 3sc (18)
R20. (1sc, dec) x6 (12)
R20. 2x dec, 2sc, 2x dec, 2sc (8)
Finish stuffing the body at this point. To strengthen the
neck, you can twist the floral wire and add cotton buds cut in
half (Pict. 7).
R21. 8sc (8)
HEAD
(Stuff as indicated)
R1. 8sc (8)
R2. (1sc, inc) x8 (24)
R3. (3sc, inc) x6 (30)
R4. (4sc, inc) x6 (36)
R5. (5sc, inc) x6 (42)
R6. (6sc, inc) x6 (48)
R7-16. (10 rounds) 48sc (48)
You can place the eyes between round 11
and 12, with 6 visible stitches in between
(Pict. 8). them so about 8 stitches apart. I
have used 8mm safety eyes, but you can
use any size you want. Using big eyes will
create a cute expression but if they are too
big, they might make your doll look a bit
scary…
I usually embroider the expression at this
stage (before securing the safety eyes with the back piece), but you can do it later
if you prefer. I have used black and white lace cotton around the eyes to create the
lashes, brows and draw attention to the eye. The noise can also be embroidered at
this point using soft apricot by doing a French know and twisting the thread 4 times
around the needle (Pict. 9 and 10). From
now on, stuff as you go. To finish you can
add a bit of blush on the cheeks to make
them rosy.
R17. (6sc, dec) x6 (42)
R18. (5sc, dec) x6 (36)
R19. (4sc, dec) x6 (30)
R20. (3sc, dec) x6 (24)
R21. (2sc, dec) x6 (18)
R22. (1sc, dec) x6 (12) Finish stuffing the
head. Ensure if it well stuffed by pushing
with a pencil or the handle of your hook
until it feels like you cannot fit any more
stuffing inside. It is important to stuff the
head well otherwise your doll will look like
she needs Botox in a few months…
R22. (dec) x6 (6) Fasten off and keep a
small tail. Close the head with a needle by
inserting it in the FLO of each stitch of the
last row and pulling to close the hole.
Insert the needle back into the head at the
center of the hole and exit somewhere
else on the head. Give a strong pull and
cut the remaining tail.
HAIR
In Black, Catona (110)
R1. 6sc MR (6)
R2. 6x inc (12)
R3. (1sc, inc) x6 (18)
R3. (2sc, inc) x6 (24)
Now we will crochet the hair strands. You
can adjust the length as you please. I have
calculated it so that the strands go down
to the middle of the arms approximatively.
You might need to do a few more/less
chains to obtain the same result
depending on how tightly you crochet.
S1-10. (10 strands) ch 30, start in the second
ch and crochet 29sc, slst in the next st on R3
(29)
S11-14. (4 strands) ch 6, start in the second
ch and crochet 5sc, slst in the next st on R3
(4) This will create the fringe.
S15-24. (10 strands) ch 30, start in the
second ch and crochet 29sc, slst in the next st
on R3 (29) (Pict. 11).
If you want to sew the hair onto the head, then
keep a long tail before fastening off. I
personally LOVE to use glue to place the hair
as I find it much faster and much nicer too. I
glued the long hair strands but kept two and
three free on each side of the fringe. I have glued the top halve of the remaining 15
strands to the head, checking their placement first and positioning them using pins
T-SHIRT
In White, Catona (106)
The T-shirt is crocheted using linen stitch. It is
very simple and consists of sc and ch1 in
between. On the next row, the sc is worked in
the ch1 from the row below and thus the ch1
falls above the sc from the round below. It
creates a nice texture for clothes. If you are not
familiar with this stitch, I suggest having a look
at a video for a more complete tutorial.
R1. Ch 30, slst in first ch (30)
R2. Ch1, (1sc in first ch, ch1 and skip second ch) x15 =15 linen stitches. Join to
first sc with a slst (15 linen st)
After R2, check that the T-shit fits your doll. If it is too small, add a few linen stitches
and start with a bigger chain and do the opposite if it is too big.
R3-12. (10 rounds) Ch1, (1sc in first ch space, ch1 and skip next sc) x15 =15 linen
st. Join to first sc with a slst (15 linen st)
R13. Ch1, 2 linen st, ch 6 and skip 1 ch space, 6 linen st, ch 6 and skip 1 ch space,
5 linen st (13 linen st) Fasten off and work out the tail (Pict. 13). On this row, omit
the ch1 on the last linen stitch before the ch6.
Sleeve (2x)
Start in the ch space that you skipped on the previous
row.
R1. Join with a standing sc in the ch space, ch1, now work
on the ch6 from R13, 1sc in the first ch, ch1, sc in the
third ch, ch1, sc in the 5th chain, ch1, sc on R13 (work in
the ch sp before the one where you started that already
contains a sc), ch1, sc in the chain space where you
started, ch1 and join to the first sc with a slst. (6 linen st)
R2-4. (3 rounds) Ch1, (1sc in first ch space, ch1 and skip next sc) x6 =6 linen st.
Join to first sc with a slst (6 linen st)
Fasten off and keep a tail long enough to close any gap you might see. Try the Tshirt on the doll as you may notice some gaps you will want to close once you start
pulling on it.
Border In Azalee, Catania (398)
Join with a standing sc at the top of the T-shirt, in
the middle ch space on the back. Work in linen st
all around and close with a slst in the first sc. (20
linen st)
Fasten off and work out the tail. (Pict. 14).
Idea: I have chosen to make my T-shirt in white with only a contrasting border in
pink to make the embroidery really pop. However, you may not wish to use
embroidery and you could make a multi color T-shirt changing colors every row or
do a bi-color one alternating two colors (Pict. 15). I cannot wait to see what you will
choose!
To create the body of the dragonfly, use Maxi Sweet treat Deep Ocean Green (391)
and embroider 5 chain stitches across the T-shirt. Alternatively, you can use surface
slst and a 1mm hook.
For the eyes, sew the two beads size 9 at the top of the chain on each side.
The wings are embroidered with
Lizbeth Raspberry Pink (623) using
detached chain stitch or petal stitch.
Insert the needle in the second chain
stitch from the top and create 2 pairs
of wings, one at the top of the stitch
and one at the bottom.
Refer to Pict. 16 for more details.
Tip: If like me you are not an expert
at embroidery, you can use fabric
glue to secure the wings and make
sure they stay nicely oval.
SHORTS
In Denim, Catania (421)
R1. Ch 30, slst in first ch (30)
R2. Ch1, 30sc on the chain (30)
Check that the shorts fit the doll. If
they are too small, add a sc start with
a bigger chain and do the opposite if
they are too big.
R3-R5. (3 rounds) 30sc (30)
R6. 15sc, ch2, join with a slst to the
first sc (skip the remaining 15sc of
R6). (15)
R7. Ch1, 15sc, 2sc on the ch2, join
with a slst to the first sc (17)
R8. Ch2, (dc inc, 1dc) x8, dc, join with a slst to first dc (25)
R9. Ch2, (dc dec, dc) x7, (dc dec) x2 join with a slst to first dc (16)
R10. Ch1,16sc, join with a slst in first sc (16)
R11. Ch1, using Azalee, Catania (398), crab stitch all around, join with a slst. Fasten
off and work out the tail. Crab stitch is actually sc done backwards and it creates
very nice borders. If you do not know how to make it, you could do a linen stitch
border as you did on the T-shirt.
Repeat R6-11 for the second leg of the shorts. On R6, join with a sc just before the
ch2 and work 2sc on the other side of the ch2 instead of doing another ch2.
SHOES
In Spruce, Catona (244)
ch 6 and start in second ch from the hook.
R1. inc, 3sc, 3sc in the last st. Continue on the other
side of the foundation chain, 4 sc. (the last sc is in the
same st, at the inc) (12)
R2. 1 sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 3sc, inc (16) Do not
fasten off the green, keep the tail on the outside
R3. In White, Catona (106) 16 sc BLO (16)
R4. 7sc, 2x dec, 5sc (14)
R5. 14sc (14)
R6. 6sc, 2x dec, 4sc finish with a slst into the first sc (12)
R7. (ch1, sc) into each sc, slst into first sc (12) Fasten off
the white and work out the tail.
R8. In Spruce, Catona (244) pick up a loop and work 1
slst into the FLO of each sc on R3 with the bottom of the sole facing up. Fasten off
the green and work out the tail (Pict. 18).
You can now embroider shoelaces on the shoes using Lizbeth Raspberry Pink (623)
