Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers
Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. master crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi rabbit, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi unicorn , amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…

We can say that Christmas time is approaching now, so I wanted to present you the santa claus amigurumi toy. You can prepare wonderful crochet handmade amigurumi dolls for your children at Christmas time. To create a step by step crochet amigurumi pattern, you must follow the instructions completely.

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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Severus Snape Free Crochet Pattern , I want to give you some information about this pattern;

MATERIALS:

• Gazzal Baby Coton skin colour
• Gazzal Baby Coton black
• Gazzal Baby Coton dark blue
• Gazzal Baby Coton white ( very little amount)
• Half a meter wire, 2,5 mm thickness
• 10 mm black safety eyes
• 4 little buttons
• 1,75 mm crochet hook -Plastic sheet for shoe soles( like a yoghurt lid etc.)

TERMS:
MR: Magic ring
SC: Single crochet(use yarn under technique)
CH: Chain
DEC: Decrease
INC: Increase
M: Triple decrease
W: Triple increase
HDC: Half double crochet
DC: Double crochet
TR: Triple crochet
SlST: slip stitch
FLO: Front loops only
BLO: Back loops only

HAND (x2):
With skin coloured yarn

1. 6sc into MR
2. 6inc = 12sc
3. 3-5. 12sc ( 3 rounds)
4. 1 popcorn stitch, 11sc
5. 12sc
6. (1dec, 4sc)*2 = 10sc
7. 9-10. 10sc ( 2 rounds)
8. (1inc, 1sc)*5= 15sc

ARMS (x2):
Make 15ch with white yarn and attach to the first ch to make a ring.

1. 15sc
   With dark blue yarn
2. FLO 15 sl st
3. FLOs of the sl st’s 15sc
   (While making the FLO’s here take the stitches at the back too so it look more proper)
4. Take the hand to the inside, take one sc from the hand one sc from the arm, make 15sc
   5-21. 15sc (17 rounds)
   -Make 3sc more on the left arm and make sure that we are at the thumb level, then cut the rope. (This may be more or less than 3 for you depending on your stitches’ tightness)
   -In the right arm, make the 21st round 11sc more and make sure you align with the pinky finger, then cut the rope. (This may be more or less than 3 for you depending on your stitches’ tightness)

FEET (x2):
Starting with the black yarn.

1. On top of 10 ch make 8sc into same ch 4sc, 7sc, 1inc = 21sc
2. 1inc, 7sc, 4inc, 7sc, 2inc = 27sc
3. 1sc, 1inc, 7sc, (1sc,1inc)4, 7sc, (1sc,1inc)2 = 35sc
4. BLO 35sc
5. 35sc
6. 10sc, 6dec, 10sc, 1m = 27sc
7. 7sc, 6dec, 8sc = 21sc
8. 7sc, 3dec, 8sc = 18sc
   ( Put a plastic sheet as sole)
9. 9-10. 18sc (2 rounds)
10. 11.1sc,1inc, (3sc,1inc)*4= 23sc
    Stuff with the fiberfill tigthly and cut the rope.

LEGS (x2):

1. Make 25 chains with the dark blue yarn, be careful not to make it too tight. Sl st into first ch to make a ring and make 25sc on top of the ring.
2. -3. 25sc (2 rounds)
   4.1dec, 23sc = 24sc
3. 11sc, 1dec, 11sc = 23sc
4. 23sc
   (For the ankle parts, sew the rounds 3 and 4, from the 8th sc, along 8sc to each other, tightly. Sew from the inside as well, to make it tighter.)

7. Put the feet inside (leaving the ankle detail on the front) take one sc from the feet one sc from the leg, make 23sc.
   8-12. 23sc (5 rounds)
   (Stuff with fiberfill firmly)
8. 4sc, 1dec, 17sc = 22sc
   14-17. 22sc ( 4 rounds)
9. 14sc, 1dec, 6sc = 21sc
   19-21. 21sc ( 3 rounds)
10. 10sc, 1dec, 9sc = 20sc
    23-32. 20sc ( 10 rounds) finish off.
    Make 18 sc in the 32nd round of the left leg, make sure that you are at the inside part, sl st and cut off. (This may be more or less for you depending on your stitches’ tightness)
    Make 18 sc in the 32nd round of the left leg, make sure that you are at the inside part, make 3ch to attach to the left leg, into the sc we sl st’ed into.

EGDE OF THE SHIRT:

1. 1. 50sc on top of 51ch (Don’t make it too tight so it keeps its form)
   *At the end of every round, cut the rope and attach to the first sc. Make a ch and starting from the same sc, keep crocheting. While maing the first and the last 3 stitches, hide the cut yarn along the sc’s. 2-15. 50sc (14 rounds)
2. 48sc, attach the 2sc at the beginning and 2sc at the end.
3. 6sc, BLO 4sc, 28sc, BLO 4sc, 6sc = 48sc
4. (1dec, 6sc)*6 = 42sc
5. 42sc, sl st cut the rope.
   *To make pocket, we will 3ch, 4dc, 3ch, sl st into the FLO’s of the round 17.

BODY:

1. 20sc from the left leg, 3sc to the middle ch, 20sc from the right leg, 3sc to the middle ch = 46sc (put the marker yarn here) 2-11. 46sc (10 rounds)
2. (1dec, 16sc, 1dec, 3sc)*2 = 42sc
3. 42sc
4. Take the edges of the shirt to the outside, stitch the together for 42sc 15-26. 42sc
5. 5sc, 6sc with the arm, 15sc, 6sc with the arm, 10sc = 42sc
6. 5sc, 9sc from the outside of the arm , 15sc, 9sc from the outside of the arm, 10sc = 48sc
   29-30. 48sc

Insert the wire inside the body and the arms and stuff. Do not stuff
arms very tightly.

31. 4sc, 2dec,1m, 2dec, 13sc, 2dec, 1m, 2dec, 9sc =36sc
32. 1sc, 2dec, 1m, 2dec, 7sc, 2dec,1m, 2dec, 6sc = 24sc
    33-34. 24sc
    Leave the dark blue yarn and continue with the white yarn
33. BLO 24sc
34. 24sc
    Leave the white yarn and continue with the skin coloured yarn
35. BLO 4sc, 1dec, 10sc, 1dec, 6sc = 22sc
    38- 45. 22sc ( 8 rounds)
36. 11dec
    Stuff the neck firmly and pull tightly the leftover stitches with a needle.
    Take the dark blue and white yarns we left outside and make 1 round of Sc into the FLOs.
    *Sew 3 or 4 buttons to the front for decoration.

HEAD:

1. 8sc into MR
2. 8inc = 16sc
3. 1sc, (2inc,2sc)*3, 2inc,1sc = 24sc
4. 2sc, (2inc,4sc)*3, 2inc, 2sc = 32sc
5. 3sc, (2inc,6sc)*3, 2inc, 3sc = 40sc
6. 4sc, (2inc,8sc)*3, 2inc, 4sc = 48sc
7. 5sc, (2inc,10sc)*3, 2inc, 5sc = 56sc
8. 6sc, (2inc,12sc)*3, 2inc, 6sc = 64sc
9. 7sc, (2inc,14sc)*3, 2inc, 7sc = 72sc
   10-20. 72sc ( 11 rounds)
10. 30sc, 1ch, skip 1sc, 10sc, 1ch, skip 1sc, 30sc
11. 30sc, 1sc on top of 1ch, 10sc, 1sc on top of
    1ch, 30sc
    23-29. 72sc (7 rounds)

Put the safety eyes on, into to “skip” holes. Embroider the eyes and nose accordingly to the picture.
-Make the nose to the 1sc below the eye, 2sc to the side, 4sc wide, go over it 3 times.

• Make the whites of the eye, 3sc wide to the outer corner of the eye.
• Make the upper eyelid, 3sc to the eye from the inner top corner, 1sc below, go over it 3 times.
• Make the lower eyelid, 3sc to the eye from the inner bottom corner, 2sc above, go over it 2 times.
  (The outer corner of the upper and lower eyelids are the same, the inner corners are aligned, 3sc apart)
• For the eyelid hood, pull the layers of the yarn apart, take the half and make a diagonal line 1sc from the starting point of the upper eyelid, 5sc sideways to the outside and 2sc down.
• For the eyebrow, take a yarn of the same thickness, make a diagonal line 1sc from inner the starting point of the eyelid hood and 2sc above, 4sc sideways to the eye and 1sc up.
  (Make sure that the last increase’s align at the bottom and do not crochet too tight. Let’s move on to the decrease’s)

30. 7sc, (2dec,14sc)*3, 2dec,7sc = 64sc
31. 6sc, (2dec,12sc)*3, 2dec, 6sc = 56sc
32. 5sc, (2dec,10sc)*3, 2dec, 5sc = 48sc
33. 4sc, (2dec,8sc)*3, 2dec, 4sc = 40sc (Stuff with the fiberfill, but pay attention to the corners to not spoil the cube form of the head)
    Put the safety eyes on, into to “skip” holes. Embroider the eyes and nose accordingly to the picture.
    -Make the nose to the 1sc below the eye, 2sc to the side, 4sc wide, go over it 3 times.
34. 3sc, (2dec,6sc)*3, 2dec, 3sc = 32sc
35. 2sc, (2dec,4sc)*3, 2dec, 2sc = 24sc
36. Starting from the BLO, make 8 rounds of 24sc and finish off. After filling the bottom part again, put this part inside of the head with pliers. Attach the head to the body and sew on if you want.

HAIR:
Make with hook one size bigger than body.

1. 1inc on top of 13 ch, 10sc, 4sc to the same chain, 10sc, 1inc = 28sc
2. BLO 2inc, 10sc, 4inc, 10sc, 2inc, sl st = 36sc turn
   Now starting the hair strands.
   -(35hdc on top of 36ch, sl st)2, (35hdc on top of 36ch, skip 1sc, sl st)7,
   (20hdc on top of 21ch, skip 1sc, sl st)2 (front), (35hdc on top of 36ch, skip1sc, sl st)7,
   35hdc on top of 36ch, sl st)2 Now we have 20 hair strands at the bottom rounds. Move on to the BLO’s with 1ch. (Keep going by keeping the hair strands’ reverse stitching at the top. ) -(35hdc on top of 36ch, skip2sc, sl st)4,
   (25hdc on top of 26ch, skip 1sc, sl st)2, (35hdc on top of 36ch, skip 2sc, sl st)4
   Cut the rope, leaving a long tail to sew.
   Iron the hair strands at low heat to flatten.
   Align to the middle of the head, and sew.
   Gather the hair at the bottom rounds (except the 2 short ones at the front) and sew where you see the pins in the photo, do not make it too tight. Don’t sew the hair at the top, just place on top of the rest and shape.

CAPE:

1. 30tr on top of 33ch(Make 3ch at the end of every round and turn to start the nest round)
   2-16. 30tr (15 rounds)
2. 13tr, turn
   18-33. 13tr (16 rounds) ( this is the right front piece)
   Cut the rope and attach the yarn to the 17th round to make the left front piece, leaving 4tr in between. Make this part in the 17th rounds and finish off. Iron lightly with low heat.

BATON:

14sc, 6slst on 21 ch. Cure with glue or varnish