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Amigurumi Hatter Friend Free Crochet Pattern

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Today, we share one free amigurumi crochet pattern for you. As you know, we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. Main crochets, amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi lama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunny, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi unigurumi lambs, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi bees, amigurumi dinosaurs, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more…

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Today’s daily new crochet pattern Amigurumi Hatter Friend Free Crochet Pattern without amigurumi I want to give you some information about this pattern;


– Raw, chocolate brown, ocher brown, ash grey, pastel pink, light blue, black and left over yarn for the jacket decoration

– Embroidery thread in metallic pink

– Salmon/orange wool roving

– Felting needle (3)

– 2.5 mm crochet hook

– A piece of coral colored cotton fabric for hat band and handkerchief

– Stuffing material

– Sewing needle and scissors

– Small safety pin and ornaments for hat

– 10mm safety eyes

– Stitch marker


– MR: magic ring

– Ch: chain

– Sl: Slip stitch

– Sc: Single crochet

– Hdc: half doublé crochet

– Inc: increase

– IncHdc: Increase with Hdc

– Inc3Hdc: Increase with Hdc (3 Hdc in same stitch)

– dec: decrease

– BLO: back loops only

– FLO: front loops only

– Rnd: round


The body is crocheted bottom up, so we’ll start with the legs and join later to continue the body.

LEFT LEG: with chocolate brown yarn

Rnd 1: 6sc in a MR (6)

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 (12)

Rnd 3: BLO 12sc (12)

Change to pastel pink yarn

Rnd 4: (inc, 3sc) x3 (15)

Rnd 5: 15sc (15)

Change to black yarn

Rnd 6: inc, 14sc (16)

Rnd 7: sc, inc, 7sc, inc, 6sc (18)

Sc and cut yarn. (This extra sc doesn’t belong to any round so don’t get confused or lose your mind over it just sc1 and keep going)


Crochet as rnds1-7 from left leg, but after rnd3

change to light blue yarn instead of pastel pink.

Continue with instructions from left leg.

Sc2 and don’t cut the yarn.

Once you’ve finished both legs hold them side by

side with hook still placed in the last stitch from right leg and join by crocheting into the st that follows the last st of the left leg. (don’t forget to place st marker when joining both legs.

This will be the start of body rounds).

Rnd 8: (5sc, inc) x6 (42)

Rnd 9: 42sc (42)

Rnd 10: (13sc, inc) x3 (45)

Rnd 11: 45sc (45)

Rnd 12: (14sc, inc) x3 (48)

Rnd 13: 48sc (48)

Rnd 14: (15sc, inc) x3 (51)

Rnd 15: 51sc (51)

Rnd 16: (16sc, inc) x3 (54)

Rnd 17-18: 54sc (54)

Rnd 19: (16sc, dec) x3 (51)

Rnd 20: 51sc (51)

Rnd 21: (15sc, dec) x3 (48)

Rnd 22: 48sc (48)

Rnd 23: (14sc, dec) x3 (45)

Rnd 24: 45sc (45)

Rnd 25: (13sc, dec) x3 (42)

Rnd 26: (12sc, dec) x3 (39)

Rnd 27: (11sc, dec) x3 (36)Start stuffing the body.

Rnd 28: (10sc, dec) x3 (33)

Rnd 29: (9sc, dec) x3 (30)

Rnd 30: (8sc, dec) x3 (27)

Rnd 31: (7sc, dec) x3 (24)

Sl st and cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing the head afterwards.

Place eyes above rnd13 with 14 sts of distance between each other.


With raw yarn.

Rnd 1: 7sc in a MR (7)

Rnd 2: (inc) x7 (14)

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x7 (21)

Rnd 4: sc, inc (2sc, inc) x6, sc (28)

Rnd 5: (3sc, inc) x7 (35)

Rnd 6: 2sc, inc (4sc, inc) x6, 2sc (42)

Rnd 7: (5sc, inc) x7 (49)

Rnd 8: 3sc, inc (6sc, inc) x6, 3sc (56)

Rnd 9: (7sc, inc) x7 (63)

Rnd 10: 4sc, inc, (8sc, inc) x6, 4sc (70)

Rnd 11: 70sc (70)

Rnd 12: (9sc, inc) x7 (77)

Rnd 13- 24: 77sc (77)

Rnd 25: (9sc, dec) x7 (70)

Rnd 26: 70sc (70)

Rnd 27: 4sc, dec (8sc, dec) x6, 4sc (63)

Rnd 28: (7sc, dec) x7 (56)

Rnd 29: 3sc, dec (6sc, dec) x6, 3sc (49)

Rnd 30: (5sc, dec) x7 (42)

Rnd 31: 2sc, dec (4sc, dec) x6, 2sc (35)

Rnd 32: (3sc, dec) x7 (28)

Rnd 33: sc, dec (2sc, dec) x6, sc (21)

Rnd 34: (sc, dec) x7 (14)

Rnd 35: (dec) x7 (7)

Tighten all stitches. Cut yarn, hiding the end inside the body.

If you’re worried about the eyes being placed too high, don’t be. The head will be sewn upside down.


With raw yarn:

Rnd 1: 6sc in a MR (6)

Rnd 2: (inc, sc) x 3 (9)

Rnd 3-4: 9sc (9)

Change to black yarn:

Rnd 5: (dec, sc x3 (6)

Rnd 6-17: 6sc (6)

Sew the arms symmetrically on top of rnd30.


With chocolate brown yarn:

Rnd 1: 6sc in a MR (6)

Rnd 2: (inc) x6 (12)

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)

Rnd 4: sc, inc, (2sc, inc) x5, sc (24)

Rnd 5: (3sc, inc) x6 (30)

Rnd 6: 2sc, inc, (4sc, inc) x5, 2sc (36)

Rnd 7: (5sc, inc) x6 (42)

Rnd 8: 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc) x5, 3sc (48)

Rnd 9: (7sc, inc) x6 (54)

Rnd 10: 4sc, inc (8sc, inc) x5, 4sc (60)

Rnd 11: (9sc, inc) x6 (66)

Rnd 12: 5sc, inc, (10sc, inc) x5, 5sc (72)

Rnd 13: (11sc, inc) x6 (78)

Rnd 14: 6sc, inc, (12sc, inc) x5, 6sc (84)

Rnd 15: (13sc, inc) x6 (90)

Rnd 16: BLO (13sc, dec) x6 (84)

Rnd 17: (26sc, dec) x3 (81)

Rnd 18: (25sc, dec) x3 (78)

Rnd 19-20: 78sc (78)

Rnd 21: (24sc, dec) x3 (75)

Rnd 22-23: 75sc (75)

Rnd 24: (23sc, dec) x3 (72)

Rnd 25-27: 72sc (72)

Rnd 28: (22sc, dec) x3 (69)

Rnd 29-30: 69sc (69)

Rnd 31: (21sc, dec) x3 (66)

Rnd 32: 66sc (66)

Rnd 33: (20sc, dec) x3 (63)

Rnd 34: 63sc (63)

Rnd 35: (19sc, dec) x3 (60)

Rnd 36: 60sc (60)

We’ve finished the crown of the hat, now we’ll crochet the brim of it.

Rnd 37: FLO (9sc, inc) x6 (66)

Rnd 38: 5sc, inc, (10sc, inc) x5, 5sc(72)

Rnd 39: (11sc, inc) x6 (78)

Rnd 40: 6sc, inc, (12sc, inc) x5, 6sc(84)

Rnd 41: (13sc, inc) x6 (90)

Rnd 42: 7sc, inc, (14sc, inc) x5, 7sc (96)

Rnd 43: (15sc, inc) x6 (102)

Rnd 44: 8sc, inc, (16sc, inc) x5, 8sc (108)

Sl st, cut yarn and hide the end inside the hat.


The coat will be crocheted from top to bottom starting with ocher brown. It will not be

crocheted in spiral, so at the end of each row you’ll ch1 and turn.

Ch29 and crochet as follows, starting at the second st.

Vta 1: 3hdc, inc3hdc, (6hdc, inc3hdc) x3, 3hdc, ch1 and turn. (36)

Vta 2: 4hdc, inc3hdc, (8hdc, inc3hdc) x3, 4hdc, ch1 and turn (44)

Vta 3: 5hdc, inc3hdc, (10hdc, inc3hdc) x3, 5hdc, ch1 and turn (52)

Vta 4: incHdc, 5hdc, incHdc, count 13 sts and crochet as follows starting in 13th st:

incHdc, 3hdc, incHdc, 3hdc, incHdc, 4hdc, incHdc, count 13 sts and crochet as

follows starting in 13th st: incHdc, 5hdc, incHdc. (36)

Vta 5: (5hdc, incHdc) x6, ch1 and turn (42)

Vta 6: (6hdc, incHdc) x6, ch1 and turn (48)

Vta 7: (7hdc, incHdc) x6, ch1 and turn (54)

Vta 8: (8hdc, incHdc) x6, ch1 and turn (60)

Vta 9: (incHdc, 19hdc) x3, ch1 and turn (63)

Vta 10: 63hdc.

Cut yarn and hide the end inside the coat


Rnd 1: For the sleeves, we’ll place the coat sideways so one the armholes (either of them) is facing up.

Join yarn (doesn’t matter what st you pick) and HDc until you reach the bottom of the

armhole as you can see in photos 01 y 02. hdc1 at the bottom of the armhole, [shown

with a turquoise arrow in photo 02], keep hdc in each st around until you reach the

beginning of the round. You’ve just finished the first rnd, you’ll keep crocheting in spiral. You should have 13 sts total.

Rnd 2 – 8: 13hdc

If you want, you can do an extra rnd of Sc.

Cut yarn and hide the end inside the sleeve.


Once you’ve finished both sleeves, put the coat on your mad hatter.

It should look like the photo.


– Orange wool roving

– Scissors

– Felting needle

– Pins

For the hair, cut around 8 pieces of wool roving, they should measure 10 cm each. Cut

a few shorter ones (2cm each) for the back of the head. Set aside while we place pins

on the head which will show us where the hair will be.

1.- Place pins around rnds 8 and 9 of the head, counting from where

we closed all sts. As shown in photo.

2.- Starting from the eye and going towards the back of the head, count 6 sts, and place a pin on the 7th. Place 2 more pins going up from where you placed the first

one. Try to keep a straight line as shown in photo. Repeat for the other side.

3.- The head of your mad hatter should look like this. Now we’ll start

adding the hair so prepare your

4.- Take the wool roving and place it just on the border we’ve marked

with pins (the red ones in the photo). Once you’re set on the hairline start felting with the felting needle. Make sure you’re piercing through the head so the roving sticks firmly. Keep going through the rest of the hairline.

5.- As you can see in the photos, you have to keep attaching the roving

through the head. You can see why it’s important to place the pins correctly, they set the space for the hair and divide from the face.

The longest pieces of roving –10cms pieces- should be located on the sideways, and for the back of the head you should use shorter pieces- 2cm long max.

6. Once you’ve covered the head with hair it should look just like the photo. Remove

pins and place hat right at the center of the head, where there’s no hair. You’ll notice the hat fits perfectly. wool roving pieces.


With ash grey yarn

The bowtie is formed by 2 pieces: the actual bow and the straps that hang from it.

For the bow, start with magic circle and crochet as follows: ch4, 4pat, 4cad, sl st

at the center of the ring, ch4, 4pat, 4cad and sl st at the center of the ring. Cut yarn and tighten the magic circle, hide the ends. The bow is done!

Now for the straps, ch26, sc in the second stitch, 24 sc. If you want longer straps add a few chains at the beginning.

Now fold the piece in half and sew it to the back of the bow. Finally, embroider a few stitches at the center of the bowtie using the pink metallic thread and sew the bowtie to the neck of your mad hatter.



(Photo 01)

Cut a piece of coral cotton fabric. It should be about 47 cms long and 2 cms

wide. Place it around the hat, tie it with a knot and let it hang on the back.

Using the same fabric cut a 3 cms long and 1 cm wide piece. Sew it to the side of the coat.


(Photo 03)

Cut pieces of yarn in 5 different colors and tie them to the fixed part of the safety pin (the one that doesn’t open). Once you’ve tied them, just place the pin at the other side of the coat.


(Photo 02)

Cut a little piece of roving, it should be about 2 cms long. Using your fingers

squish it so it’s as thin as possible. Place them on top of each eye using your felting needle. Make sure they’re placed as shown in the photo, that way your

Hatter will have that same cute look in his eyes.


(Photo 02)

Using pink eye shadow paint your Hatter’s left eyelid. Using green and light blue

eyeshadow paint the right eyelid. Using bright red eyeshadow paint right under

the eyes of your hatter, softening the pressure as you move closer to the cheek bones. Use photos as reference.


(Photo 04)

Using ash grey thread, embroider straight lines starting from the top of the

pastel pink/light blue details and going 5 sts up. Repeat until you have lines all

around the hatters body.

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