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Amigurumi Cute Dragon Free Crochet Pattern

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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Cute Dragon Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Materials;

When using the suggested materials, it will be about 20 cm tall.

The listed wool and hook sizes are only suggestions. It is, of course, entirely your

personal choice, which yarn you use.

Please keep in mind that different yarn may result in a bigger or smaller piece. Make

sure to adapt your hook size according to your yarn and personal tension. When

crocheting Amigurumis you should use a much smaller needle size than indicated on

the label or you would use it for other crochet projects so that no holes are made

when the piece is stuffed.

• Wool (Sport Weight), e. g. Schachenmayr Catania/Scheepjes Catona (No. 162 or

black, some pink for the tongue

• Crochet hook in suitable size (with me: 2.0 mm and 2.5 mm)

• Stuffing

• Pipe cleaner and/or florist wire

• Dragon eyes in suitable size (with me: 6 mm)

Abbreviations (US Terms)

MR = magic ring

sc = single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

slst = slip stitch

ch = chain

(-) x = repeat inside of () for x nr of times

inc = increase

dec = decrease

st = stitch

BLO = back loop only

FLO = front loop only

Crochet in continuous rounds (spirals), unless otherwise stated.

Head

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5.-7. (3 Rounds) sc in each st around (24)

8. (sc7, inc) x3 (27)

9.-13. (5 Rounds) sc in each st around (27)

14. sc 10, sc 3 in next st, sc 5, sc 3 in next st, sc 10 (31)

15. sc in each st around (31)

16. sc 3, inc, (sc 5, inc) x4, sc 3 (36)

17.-23. (6 Rounds) sc in each st around (36)

24. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

25. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

26. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

27. (sc 1, dec) x6 (12)

Stuff and shape the head.

28. dec x6 (6)

Fasten off, weave in loose ends.

Mark the spots for eyes and nostrils with pins.

To form the eye and nostrils, insert a wool or darning needle with sturdy thread from below (where the neck will be placed later) and come out to one of the eye pins, reinsert a stitch offset and go back to the starting point, tighten and knot well.

Repeat for the second eye and for the nostrils. Attach the eyes, knot well, weave in loose ends.

Eyelid (make 2)

ch 6, skip 1, slst 5.

Sew on the eyelids above the eyes as shown at the

pictures.

Ear (make 2)

You will start with an oval (see the diagram).

ch 4, starting in 2nd chain from hook: sc 1, in last stitch: (dc 1, hdc 1, sc 1, hdc 1,

dc 1), rotate 180 degrees and crochet along the opposite side of the foundation

chain: sc 1, sc 2 in last st, join round with a slst in first stitch.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Horn (make 2)

1. ch 3, join round with a slst, sc 2 in each ch (6)

2. sc in each st around (6)

3. sc 5, inc (7)

4. sc 6, inc (8)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Stuff a little if necessary.

Sew the ears with the wide side to the left and right of the head, sew the horns between the ears.

Mouth

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. sc in each st around (12)

4. (sc 3, inc) x3 (15)

5. (sc 4, inc) x3 (18)

6.-10. (5 Rounds) sc in each st around (18)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff, fold the mouth flat.

Tongue

pink

Crochet an oval again.

1. ch 6, starting in 2nd chain from hook: sc 4, sc 3 in last st, rotate 180 degrees and

crochet along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc 3, sc 2 in last st(12)

2. inc, sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x2 (18)

3. sc 1, slst 1, leave the remaining stitches unworked

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Pin tongue and mouth to the head and sew both on.

Body

Stuff and shape the body while crocheting.

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. sc in each st around (6)

3. (sc 1, inc) x3 (9)

4. sc in each st around (9)

5. sc 8, inc (10)

6. sc in each st around (10)

7. sc 9, inc (11)

8.-9. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (11)

10. sc 10, inc (12)

11.-12. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (12)

13. sc 11, inc (13)

14.-15. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (13)

16. sc 12, inc (14)

17.-18. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (14)

19. sc 13, inc (15)

20.-21. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (15)

22. sc 14, inc (16)

23.-24. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (16)

25. sc 15, inc (17)

26.-27. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (17)

28. sc 16, inc (18)

29.-30. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (18)

31. (sc 5, inc) x3 (21)

32. (sc 6, inc) x3 (24)

33. sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

34. sc 7, inc, (sc 2, inc) x5, sc 7 (36)

35.-44. (10 Rounds) sc in each st around (36)

45. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

46. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

47.-50. (4 Rounds) sc in each st around (24)

51. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

52.-53. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (30)

54. (sc 9, inc) x3 (33)

55.-59. (5 Rounds) sc in each st around (33)

60. sc 16, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 8 (36)

61.-63. (3 Rounds) sc in each st around (36)

64. sc 16, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 8 (33)

65. (sc 9, dec) x3 (30)

66. (sc 8, dec) x3 (27)

67. (sc 7, dec) x3 (24)

68. (sc 6, dec) x3 (21)

69.-70. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (21)

71. sc 13, dec, sc 6 (20)

72. sc 12, dec, sc 6 (19)

73. sc 12, dec, sc 5 (18)

74. sc 4, inc, sc 6, dec, sc 5 (18)

75. sc in each st around(18)

Fasten off, don’t close, leave a long tail for sewing.

Finish stuffing.

Leg (make 2)

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5.-8. (4 Rounds) sc in each st around (24)

9. (sc 10, dec) x2 (22)

10. sc in each st around (22)

11. (sc 9, dec) x2 (20)

12. sc in each st around (20)

13. (sc 8, dec) x2 (18)

14. sc in each st around (18)

15. (sc 7, dec) x2 (16)

16.-17. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (16)

18. (sc 6, dec) x2 (14)

19.-20. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (14)

21. (sc 5, dec) x2 (12)

22.-23. (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (12)

Stuff the upper leg very loosely, this is later folded flat and sewn on. You don’t

wanna have a kind of balls to the left and right of the body :o)

24. inc x3, sc 2, dec x2, sc 3 (13)

25. (sc 1, inc) x3, sc 1, dec x2, sc 2 (14)

26. sc 10, dec x2 (12)

27.-31. (5 Rounds) sc in each st around (12)

Fasten off, do not close, leave a long tail for sewing.

Now stuff the leg, making sure that no more stuffing gets into the upper leg. For this I held the leg together with two fingers (flattened).

If the dragon is only for decoration, it is recommended to work some wire into the leg, because they have to carry a lot of weight through the wings and are still relatively slim.

Otherwise only very, very tight stuffing helps.

Foot (make 2)

For the claws I used the finger method of this video (click) and adapted. Other than shown in the video, do not close the toes immediately, they will be closed later.

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. sc in each st around (12)

4. (sc 2, inc) x4 (16)

5. (sc 1, inc) x8 (24)

6. sc in each st around (24)

7.a) sc 2, insert hook in 3rd and 22th stitch and sc 1, turn and insert hook in 22th stitch from this side again and sc 1, sc 2 (6)

8.-10. a) (3 Rounds) sc in each st around (6) Fasten off, cut the yarn, do not close yet.

Second claw is crocheted the same way. Insert hook in the last stitch of the first claw at the front (claw is at the right) and pull up a loop, start the second claw in the next stitch:

7.b) sc 2, insert hook in 6th and 19th stitch and sc 1, turn and insert hook in 19th stitch from this side again and sc 1, sc 2 (6)

8.b) (sc 2, inc) x2 (8)

9.-10. b) (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (8)

11.b) (sc 2, dec) x2 (6)

12.b) sc in each st around (6)

Fasten off, cut the yarn, do not close yet.

Insert hook in the last stitch of the second claw at the front (both claws are at the right) and pull up a loop, start the third claw in the next stitch:

7.c) sc 2, insert hook in 9th and 16th stitch and sc 1, turn and insert hook in 16th

stitch from this side again and sc 1, sc 2 (6)

8.c) (sc 2, inc) x2 (8)

9.-10. c) (2 Rounds) sc in each st around (8)

11.c) (sc 2, dec) x2 (6)

12.c) sc in each st around (6)

Fasten off, cut the yarn, do not close yet.

Insert hook in the last stitch of the third claw at the front (all claws are at the right) and pull up a loop, start the fourth claw in the next stitch. Because it is the last claw

it’s a bit different but quite easy:

7.-10. d) (4 Rounds) sc in each st around (6)

Fasten off, cut the yarn, do not close yet.

Now insert pipe cleaners into the claws (I always fold a small piece of the ends of the wire first and then twist it together very tightly, then don’t prick it out). Close the claws now.

To do this, thread the end thread into a darning needle or similar and then go through the front loops of the last round and tighten them to close the gap in the middle. :o) Weave in loose ends.

Back spines

I used a bigger hook size here (0.5 mm bigger),

with me: 2.5 mm

ch 61, skip 1 ch, slst 2, (ch 3, sc 1 in 3rd ch

from hook, skip 1, slst 1) <- repeat all inside of

the brackets until you reach the end of the

foundation chain, end up with a slip stitch.

Now the wings are still missing. Each wing is made of 6 parts and must of course be

crocheted twice.

Wing (make 2)

Part 1:

It could make more sense to make part 4-6 first so you can adapt the length if

necessary.

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. (sc 2, inc) x2 (8)

3.-57. (55 Rounds) sc in each st around (8) <- sc 440 in total

58. (sc 1, inc) x4 (12)

59. sc in each st around (12)

60. (sc 3, inc) x3 (15)

61. sc in each st around (15)

62. (sc 4, inc) x3 (18)

63. sc in each st around (18)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Insert pipe cleaner (either thicker or double the thin one). If the dragon is only for

decoration, the wing can be strengthened directly with thicker wire, since it becomes

quite heavy and Pipe cleaner might be too weak for the weight. Do not use wire for a

toy, just stuff the wing parts. The thicker part of the wing, which is later sewn to the

body, has to be stuffed a little.

Part 2:

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2.-19. (18 Rounds) sc in each st around (6) <- sc 108 in total

Fasten off, do not close. Insert pipe cleaner (fold the ends of the pipe cleaner and

twist them tightly). Beenden, nicht schließen. Mit dünnem Pfeifenputzer stopfen. In

this case a pipe cleaner is enough, it is not a supporting part.

Part 3:

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2.-27. (26 Rounds) sc in each st around (6) <- sc 156 in total

Fasten off, do not close. Insert pipe cleaner (fold the ends of the pipe cleaner and

twist them tightly). Beenden, nicht schließen. Mit dünnem Pfeifenputzer stopfen. In

this case a pipe cleaner is enough, it is not a supporting part.

Part 4:

Crochet in rows. At the end of each row, chain 1 and turn.

I used a bigger hook size here (0.5 mm bigger), with me: 2.5 mm

1. ch 8, skip 1 ch, sc 7, ch 1, turn (7)

2. sc 6, inc, ch 1, turn (8)

3. inc, sc 7, ch 1, turn (9)

4. sc 8, inc, ch 1, turn (10)

5. inc, sc 9, ch 1, turn (11)

6. sc 10, inc, ch 1, turn (12)

7. inc, sc 11, ch 1, turn (13)

8. sc 12, inc, ch 1, turn (14)

9. inc, sc 13, ch 1, turn (15)

10. sc 14, inc, ch 1, turn (16)

11. inc, sc 15, ch 1, turn (17)

12. sc 16, inc, ch 1, turn (18)

13. inc, sc 17, ch 1, turn (19)

14. sc 18, inc (20)

ch 1, do not turn, crochet along the side (and only on this side – on the photo the lower side) sc 1 per row.

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Part 5:

Crochet in rows. At the end of each row, chain 1 and turn.

I used a bigger hook size here (0.5 mm bigger), with me: 2.5 mm

1. ch 12, skip 1 ch, sc 11, ch 1, turn (11)

2. inc, sc 9, inc, ch 1, turn (13)

3.-4. (2 Rounds) sc in each st, ch 1, turn (13)

5. inc, sc 11, inc, ch 1, turn (15)

6.-7. (2 Rows) sc in each st, ch 1, turn (15)

8. inc, sc 13, inc, ch 1, turn (17)

9.-10. (2 Rows) sc in each st, ch 1, turn (17)

11. inc, sc 15, inc, ch 1, turn (19)

12.-13. (2 Rows) sc in each st, ch 1, turn (19)

14. inc, sc 17, inc, ch 1, turn (21)

15.-16. (2 Rows) sc in each st, ch 1, turn (21)

17. inc, sc 19, inc, ch 1, turn (23)

18.-19. (2 Rows) sc in each st, ch 1, turn (23)

20. inc, sc 21, inc, ch 1, turn (25)

21.-22. (2 Rows) sc in each st (25)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Part 6:

Crochet in rows. At the end of each row, chain 1 and turn.

I used a bigger hook size here (0.5 mm bigger), with me: 2.5 mm

1. sc 5 in MR -> Just tighten the ring, don’t close, ch 1, turn (5)

2. inc, sc 1, sc 3 in next st, sc 1, inc, ch 1, turn (9)

3. sc 4, sc 3, in next st, sc 4, ch 1, turn (11)

4. inc, sc 4, sc 3 in next st, sc 4, inc, ch 1, turn (15)

5. sc 7, sc 3 in next st, sc 7, ch 1, turn (17)

6. inc, sc 7, sc 3 in next st, sc 7, inc, ch 1, turn (21)

7. sc 10, sc 3 in next st, sc 10, ch 1, turn (23)

8. inc, sc 10, sc 3 in next st, sc 10, inc, ch 1, turn (27)

9. sc 13, sc 3 in next st, sc 13, ch 1, turn (29)

10. inc, sc 13, sc 3 in next st, sc 13, inc, ch 1, turn (33)

11. sc 16, sc 3 in next st, sc 16, ch 1, turn (35)

12. inc, sc 16, sc 3 in next st, sc 16, inc, ch 1, turn (39)

13. sc 19, sc 3 in next st, sc 19, ch 1, turn (41)

14. inc, sc 19, sc 3 in next st, sc 19, inc, ch 1, turn (45)

15. sc 22, sc 3 in next st, sc 22, ch 1, turn (47)

16. sc 6, (sc 3, inc) x3, sc 6 (50) <- leave the remaining stitches unworked, ch 1, turn

17. sc 6, (sc 4, inc) x3, sc 6, ch 1, turn (30)

Crochet “around the corner” again in the next round, i.e. again the complete row.

18. sc 6, (sc 5, inc) x3, sc 5, sc 3 in next st, sc 25, ch 1, turn (60)

19. sc 23, skip 1, sc 1, slst 1 (25) <- leave the remaining stitches unworked, ch 1, turn

20. skip 1, sc 24 (24) ch 1, don’t turn, crochet along the lower edge a row of single crochet stitches, sc 1 per row but skip each 5th stitch (row) (30)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

When sewing the wings together, the motto is: “If it doesn’t fit, we will make it fit”.

This means: the wing blades must be sewn into the struts so that they end at the end, this is the reason why it is better to crochet part 4-6 first so you can adapt the length of the struts – or you have to stretch or push it a little.

First I marked the places for the struts by placing the flat parts between them and then I sewed the first strut. Sew the (smallest) wing sheet into the space in between.

Now mark the next strut and sew it on (make sure that everyone – even the first one

– always has all wing sheets inserted for placement). Then sew in the middle wing sheet and finally the last one

If it is bad or not visible: the long strut on top is part 1 (called Teil 1), the shorter one at the left is part 2, the right one is part 3, the small flat part at the left is part 4, in the middle is part 5 and at the right Part 6.

(Teil = part)

Look at the picture to the, that’s how it looks sewn. Make 2 of these wings.

Finishing

Before sewing the dragon, pin all the pieces together and move the pieces if necessary until it looks good for you.

If not already done, sew the horns, ears and eyelid to the head. Sew the mouth to the marked point at the bottom of the head so that the mouth is wide open. Sew the feet to the legs (preferably with the mattress stitch). Sew legs, wings, back spines and head to the body (for the wings also sew on the short side of the wing sheet).

For the head, the round area of the wing and the legs I used the mattress stitch, which holds incomparably well and gives additional stability.

Congrats, it’s done!

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