Amigurumi Blue Lobster Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi Blue Lobster Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

Pattern abbreviations
The following abbreviations have been used in this book:
ch = chain stitch
dc = double crochet
dec = single crochet decrease
hdc = half double crochet
hdc2tog = half double crochet decrease 2 stitches into 1
inc = single crochet increase
inv dec = invisible decrease
inv sc3tog = put hook through front loops of first 2 stitches and
under both loops of third stitch, pull 1 loop through, complete as sc.
sc = single crochet
sc3tog = single crochet decrease 3 stitches into 1
slst = slip stitch
st(s) = stitches
tr = treble crochet
Crochet terminology
The patterns are all written using US crochet terms. If you are used
to working with UK terms, please note the following differences in
stitch names:

TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Yarn
The wonderful thing about amigurumi is that they can be made in any
yarn! For the projects in this book, I have used yarn from Paintbox
Yarns and Rico Designs, with the odd extra thrown in. At the start of
each project you will find a list of the exact yarn used and the number
of balls each sample took.
A thicker yarn will produce a bigger toy than the sample and will
require more yarn. If your chosen yarn is thinner than the sample the
result will be dinkier. When substituting yarns, I always compare the
length and weight of the yarn ball to the one listed in the pattern – if in
doubt it’s best to have an extra ball or you might find yourself playing
a game of yarn chicken!
While the samples are made in smooth yarns with texture added in
other ways, there are many other fibres to explore – try working with
chenille or faux fur as well as plain cotton to get a different result.
Hooks
Finding the right hook is key to a successful amigurumi project.
Luckily there are many options to try out and depending on how you
hold it in your hand some will be more comfortable than others. I hold
my hook like a pen and always use Clover Soft Touch hooks.
Tension (gauge)
To find out if your hook size is right for your yarn try making a small
tension swatch (see Tension swatch). For toys, the aim is to create a
dense, but not stiff, fabric with no gaps between stitches for stuffing
to show through. If the fabric feels too loose, try switching to a
smaller hook. If it’s too stiff and getting the hook into the next stitch is
a struggle, try going up to the next hook size.
Tension swatch
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: Inc in all 6 sts. [12]
Round 3: (1sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [18]
Round 4: (2sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [24]
Fasten off.
I recommend the following hook sizes in order to achieve the same
size as the samples:
DK cotton: 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Worsted wool: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
4-ply cotton held double: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
DK cotton held together with mohair: 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Remember, these are just guidelines. The main aim is for you to
produce a crochet fabric that you will enjoy working with!
Other tools and materials
As well as the yarn and hook you will also need the following items.
TOY SAFETY EYES
Plain black eyes are used for most of the projects in this book, with a
size chosen that matches the proportion of each toy. But there are
many more unusual, sparkly or realistic toy eyes available online.
Embroidered eyes and sewn-on beads also work well; each element
you choose will add unique personality to your project. However, if
you are giving the toy to a small child, it’s best to stick to safety eyes
or embroidery.
TOY STUFFING
To give the toys their shape you will need to fill them with toy stuffing.
High-loft polyester stuffing is lightweight and versatile; you will find it
in your local haberdashery or online. If you prefer sticking to natural
fibres, pure wool or recycled cotton stuffing is a good alternative.
FABRIC STABILIZER
For some of the flatter details, a stabilizing insert will help the toy to
keep its shape. You can use thick wadding, felt or fabric stabilizer for
this – the key is to look for something flexible that bounces back into
shape when released.
WIRES
To help the animals hold their poses you can reinforce some parts
with wire or craft pipe cleaners (chenille stems). A coated wire, such
as 3mm (28-gauge) garden wire, works well for adding a lot of
support. Doubling up pipe cleaners adds just enough support to gently
adjust the shape.
SEWING PINS AND CLIPS
You will need to have some sewing pins handy when sewing together
the different elements of each creature. When joining larger pieces
together, sewing clips can work better than pins. Sewing clips can be
found in haberdashery shops.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE
For sewing creature parts together, choose a blunt-tipped tapestry
needle with a wide eye, so that the yarn is easy to draw through it.
The blunt tip will stop the yarn from splitting and protect the fingertips
from any prickles!
STITCH MARKERS
Marking the beginning of a round with a stitch marker can be very
helpful for keeping on track. You can use a removable stitch marker,
a safety pin, a bit of contrasting colour yarn or the yarn tail from the
start of the project.
WIRE BRUSH
An ordinary pet hairbrush is the perfect tool for making your crochet
creatures extra fluffy!

Armed with impressive claws, wiggly legs and long antennae,
lobsters are rather iconic sea dwellers. These amazing
crustaceans are thought to never stop growing – just imagine
a metre-long giant crawling along among the ancient
shipwrecks! When we think of lobsters we tend to think of
red, but they can be many different colours, from muddy
brown to cerulean blue and even multicoloured. Contrary to
the popular line from one well-known ’90s sitcom, they do not
actually mate for life … never mind, plenty more fish in the
sea!

Dimensions
30cm (12in) long
Yarns
Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (100% cotton), 125m (137yds) per 50g
(1¾oz) ball:
Dark Blue: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Sailor Blue (shade 440)
Blue: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Dolphin Blue (shade 437)
Light Blue: 1 x 50g (1¾oz) ball in Duck Egg Blue (shade 436)
Hooks
3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Other tools and materials
Pair 10.5mm black safety eyes
Toy stuffing
Sewing pins
Tapestry needle

FUN FACT
Lobsters have long lifespans,
which allows them to reach
impressive sizes. The largest
lobster ever caught is thought to
have weighed over 20kg (44lb)!
Tension (gauge)
Tension is not critical for this project, but if you want to match the
pattern shown here, make a small circular swatch using the chosen
yarn and hook (see Tools and materials: Tension swatch for the
swatch pattern).
When made in DK weight cotton with a 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
the swatch should measure 3.5cm (1⅜in) across.
Project notes
The body is worked in one piece,
from the nose down to the tail
edge. The claws, antennae and
legs are made separately and
sewn to the body at the end. Using
a range of tones of one colour
creates a nice ombre effect – you
could experiment with other shades
for a more striking palette, perhaps
a rainbow?
Body
Make 1, start in Dark Blue yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: (1sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [9]
Round 3: (2sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [12]
Round 4: (3sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [15]
Round 5: (4sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [18]
Round 6: (5sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [21]
Round 7: (6sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [24]
Round 8: Sc in all 24 sts. [24]
Round 9: (7sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [27]
Round 10: Sc in all 27 sts. [27]
Round 11: (8sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [30]
Round 12: Sc in all 30 sts. [30]
Round 13: (9sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [33]
Round 14: Sc in all 33 sts. [33]
Round 15: (10sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [36]
Round 16: Sc in all 36 sts. [36] (photo 1)

The next round marks the positions of the eyes.
Round 17: (11sc, 3sc in next st) 2 times, 12sc. [40]
Round 18: 12sc, inc in next st, 13sc, inc in next st, 13sc. [42] (photo
2)

Rounds 19–22: Sc in all 42 sts. [4 rounds]
Round 23: Slst in all 42 sts. [42]
Round 24: (5sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [49]
Rounds 25–38: Sc in all 49 sts. [14 rounds]
Round 39: (inv dec, 5sc) 7 times. [42]
Round 40: (inv dec, 4sc) 7 times. [35]
Round 41: Slst in all 35 sts. [35]
Add the safety eyes between Rounds 17 and 18, where the
increases are. The eyes now indicate the top side of the body.
(photo 3)

Round 42: (4sc, inc in next st) 7 times. [42]
Rounds 43–45: Sc in all 42 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 46: (inv dec, 5sc) 6 times. [36]
Round 47: Slst in all 36 sts. [36]
Round 48: (5sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [42]
Rounds 49–51: Sc in all 42 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 52: (inv dec, 5sc) 6 times. [36]
Round 53: Slst in all 36 sts. [36] (photo 4)

Fasten off the Dark Blue yarn and join Blue to any slip stitch on the
underside of the body.
Round 54: (5sc, inc in next st) 6 times. [42]
Rounds 55–56: Sc in all 42 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 57: (inv dec, 5sc) 6 times. [36]
Round 58: (inv dec, 10sc) 3 times. [33]
Round 59: Slst in all 33 sts. [33]
Round 60: (10sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [36]
Rounds 61–63: Sc in all 36 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 64: (inv dec, 4sc) 6 times. [30]
Round 65: Slst in all 30 sts. [30] (photo 5)

Fasten off the Blue yarn and join Light Blue to any slip stitch on the
underside of the body.
Round 66: (9sc, inc in next st) 3 times. [33]
Rounds 67–68: Sc in all 33 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 69: (inv dec, 9sc) 3 times. [30]
Round 70: (inv dec, 3sc) 6 times. [24] (photo 6

Add lots of toy stuffing. Pinch the end flat so that the eyes are on the
top half of the body.
Work additional sc until you reach a corner, then turn and work
through both layers of the tail to close the gap.
Row 71: 12sc across the closed edge. [12] (photos 7 and 8)

Fasten off.
Antennae
Make 2 in Dark Blue yarn.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Rounds 2–42: Sc in all 5 sts. [41 rounds]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 9)

Claws
Make 2, start in Light Blue yarn.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Round 2: 2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc. [7]
Round 3: 3sc, 3sc in next st, 3sc. [9]
Round 4: 4sc, 3sc in next st, 4sc. [11]
Round 5: 5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc. [13]
Round 6: 6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc. [15

Round 7: 7sc, 3sc in next st, 7sc. [17]
Round 8: 8sc, 3sc in next st, 8sc. [19]
Round 9: Inc in next st, 8sc, 3sc in next st, 8sc, inc in next st. [23]
Round 10: Inc in next st, 10sc, 3sc in next st, 10sc, inc in next st.
[27]
Round 11: Inc in next st, 12sc, 3sc in next st, 12sc, inc in next st.
[31]
Round 12: Inc in next st, 29sc, inc in next st. [33] (photo 10)

Rounds 13–32: Sc in all 33 sts. [20 rounds]
Round 33: (inv dec, 9sc) 3 times. [30]
Round 34: (3sc, inv dec) 6 times. [24]
Round 35: (2sc, inv dec) 6 times. [18]
Add toy stuffing.
Round 36: (1sc, inv dec) 6 times. [12]
Round 37: Slst in all 12 sts. [12] (photo 11)

Fasten off Light Blue and join Blue to any slip stitch. (photo 12)

Rounds 38–52: Sc in all 12 sts. [15 rounds] (photo 13)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Using a tapestry needle and the Light Blue yarn, stitch a line down
each claw, dividing them into two. Use the increases from the start of
Round 9 as the starting point and sew up to Round 20. (photo 14)

Legs
Make 8, start in Light Blue yarn.
Round 1: 5sc in a magic ring. [5]
Rounds 2–5: Sc in all 5 sts. [4 rounds]
Round 6: 2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc. [7]
Round 7: Change to Blue yarn, sc in all 7 sts. [7]
Round 8: 2sc, inv dec, 3sc. [6]
Rounds 9–11: Sc in all 6 sts. [3 rounds]
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. (photo 15)

Tail
Make 1 in Light Blue yarn.
Round 1: 6sc in a magic ring. [6]
Round 2: (1sc, 3sc in next st, 1sc) 2 times. [10]
Round 3: (2sc, 3sc in next st, 2sc) 2 times. [14]
Round 4: Sc in all 14 sts. [14]
Round 5: (3sc, 5sc in next st, 3sc) 2 times. [22]
Round 6: (5sc, 3sc in next st, 5sc) 2 times. [26]
Round 7: (6sc, 3sc in next st, 6sc) 2 times. [30]
Rounds 8–9: Sc in all 30 sts. [2 rounds]
Round 10: (7sc, 5sc in next st, 7sc) 2 times. [38]
Round 11: (9sc, inc in next st, 9sc) 2 times. [40]
Rounds 12–14: Sc in all 40 sts. [3 rounds]
Round 15: (inv dec, 8sc) 4 times. [36]
Round 16: (inv dec, 7sc) 4 times. [32]
Round 17: (inv dec, 6sc) 4 times. [28]
Round 18: (inv dec, 5sc) 4 times. [24]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing and shaping. Add a little bit
of stuffing.
Assembly
Place the tail over the flat end of the body and sew it into place using
the posts of the stitches on either side of the flat end. (photo 16)

Using the Light Blue yarn, divide the tail into five segments with
stitched seams, going from the body end of the tail to the tip, at the
points where 5sc are worked into one stitch – these mark the
segment tips for the tail. (photos 17 and 18)