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Amigurumi The Bear Free Crochet Pattern

Hello dear Amigurumi Knitting Lovers,Today we share a free amigurumi crochet pattern for you.
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Today, the new daily crochet pattern Amigurumi The Bear Free Crochet Pattern, I want to give you some information about this pattern;

WHAT YOU WILL NEED
I have used Scheepjes Catona Cotton yarn with the colours:
• 505 – Linen – beige (1x 50g ball)*
• 257 – Antique Mauve – brown (scrap yarn 5g or less)
Or
• 179 – Topaz – gold (1x 50g ball)*
• 254 – Moonrock – brown (scrap yarn 5g or less)

  • If you use a larger hook, or a looser tension, I suggest having a second ball
    handy in case you need it.
    • Black embroidery thread
    • A 2.5 mm & 3.00 mm crochet hook
    • Toy stuffing
    • Yarn/Embroidery needle
    • Stitch Markers
    • Pins
    • Scissors
    You can use any yarn of your choice, just adjust
    your crochet hook according to the yarn.
    Caution: If this toy is intended for a baby/small child,
    embroidered eyes are recommended. If you choose to use safety
    eyes, be sure to attach them securely. Make sure all yarn ends
    are thoroughly weaved in. Supervision around children is
    recommended.

CROCHET TERMS USED // ABBREVIATIONS GUIDE
(US terminology):

Below are basic explanations of the crochet terms used in
this pattern.
• CHAIN (ch) With a loop on your hook, yarn over from back to
front and pull the loop through
• STITCH (st)
• MAGIC RING (mr) Wrap yarn over two fingers twice forming an
X. Place the hook under the first piece of yarn and then over
the second piece of yarn. Pull the outer strand of yarn under
the first strand of the X forming a loop. Yarn over once more
and draw the yarn through both loops. Work the appropriate
number of stitches into the loop by inserting the hook into
the main circle space onto the other side, yarning over and
pulling through the space in the middle, yarn over the hook
and pull through both loops on the hook. Once you have
crocheted the number of stitches required, pull the short bit
of string to tighten the ring
• SINGLE CROCHET (sc) Insert your hook into a stitch, yarn over (I
prefer to pull the yarn through with my hook on top of the
yarn to create a X effect), pull the yarn through (two loops
on the hook), yarn over once more and pull the yarn through
both loops
DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) Yarn over the hook before going into a
stitch. Once you yarn over, insert your hook into the stitch,
yarn over and pull through. You should have 3 loops on your
hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 of the loops on your
hook. Yarn over again, and pull through the remaining 2
loops.
• SLIP ST (slst) Put your hook through the stitch, yarn over, pull
through the stitch, and then pull the yarn through the loop
on your hook
• INCREASE (inc / dc inc) Work 2 single crochets / 2 double
crochets into the same stitch
• INV DECREASE (dec/ dc dec) Insert your hook under the front
loop of the first stitch, and then under the front loop of the
second stitch. Yarn over and pull through both front loops.
Yarn over and pull through the remaining loops. For a dc dec,
yarn over, insert your hook under the front loop of the first
stitch, and then under the front loop of the second stitch.
Yarn over and pull through 2 of the loops on your hook. Yarn
over once more and pull through the remaining 2 loops.
• BACK LOOP ONLY (BLO) Work the required stitch in the back
loop only instead of both loops
• FRONT LOOP ONLY (FLO) Work the required stitch in the front
loop only instead of both loops


Construction:

The legs and arms must be made before making the body. Both the arms and legs will be crocheted into the body piece, with no requirement to sew.
Ears and snout of the bear are sewn on.
The body will require a 3.00mm hook to be used, all other pieces will require a 2.5mm
Skill level: beginner-intermediate
Size: Harry baby bear lovey measures approximately 21 cm // 8 inches lengthwise when made with the above materials.

Instructions
Use a 2.5mm hook unless stated otherwise
Head
Use body colour (beige or gold)
Rnd 1: begin with a mr of 6 (6)
Rnd 2: inc in all st (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc in the next st) x6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc in the next st) x6 (24)
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc in the next st) x6 (30)
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc in the next st) x6 (36)
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc in the next st) x6 (42)
Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc in the next st) x6 (48)
Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc in the next st) x6 (54)
Rnd 10-18: sc in all st (54) 9 rounds
Rnd 19: (17 sc, inc in the next st) x3 (57)
Rnd 20-21: sc in all st (57) 2 rounds
Rnd 22: (17 sc, dec) x3 (54)
Rnd 23: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48)
Rnd 24: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x5, 3 sc (42)
Rnd 25: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36)
Rnd 26: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x5, 2 sc (30)
Rnd 27: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
Stuff the head and continue throughout. If you choose to
use safety eyes, I recommend putting them between rounds 15-16.
Rnd 28: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x5, sc (18)
Rnd 29: in the BLO, sc in all st (18)
Rnd 30: (sc, dec) x6 (12)
Rnd 31: dec x6 (6)
Add any additional stuffing you might need. Fasten off
leaving a yarn tail. With your needle and the yarn tail,
weave the yarn through the remaining front loops of
round 31, and pull tight to close (FIGURES 1-3). Weave in
the yarn tail.


EARS (make 2)
Use body colour (beige or gold)
Rnd 1: begin with a mr of 6 (6)
Rnd 2: inc in all st (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc in the next st) x6 (18)
Rnd 4-6: sc in all st (18) 3 rounds
Fasten off leaving a yarn tail for sewing. The ears are not
stuffed.


SNOUT
Use body colour (beige or gold)
Rnd 1: begin with a mr of 6 (6)
Rnd 2: inc in all st (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc in the next st) x6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc in the next st) x6 (24)
Rnd 5-6: sc in all st (24) 2 rounds
Fasten off leaving a yarn tail for sewing. The snout will be
stuffed during assembly.

SNOUT CONTINUED. . .
Nose
– use brown
Sew a nose onto the snout between rounds 3-4. You
can choose to sew a small triangular nose, or a long
wide strip nose. Use black embroidery thread to
create a line straight down from the nose. Weave in
all yarn/thread tails (FIGURES 26 & 28).


ARMS (make 2)
Use body colour (beige or gold)
Rnd 1: begin with a mr of 6 (6)
Rnd 2: inc in all st (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc in the next st) x6 (18)
Rnd 4: sc in all st (18)
Rnd 5: (sc, dec) x6 (12)
Rnd 6-21: sc in all st (12) 16 rounds
Fasten off and weave in the yarn tail. Use the
invisible way to fasten off*. Stuff the arms lightly
between rounds 1-7 and leave the remaining
rounds free of filling.
*Invisible method: Pull the yarn after completing round 21.
With your needle, sew the yarn into the second stitch of round
21 – skipping one stitch. Then, insert the needle back into the
middle of the stitch you started with (the last st of round 21).
Pull slightly, then weave in the yarn tail. This will close off
your work nicely. (FIGURES 4-7)

LEGS (make 2)
Use body colour (beige or gold)
Rnd 1: begin with a mr of 6 (6)
Rnd 2: inc in all st (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc in the next st) x6 (18)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc in the next st) x6 (24)
Rnd 5-6: sc in all st (24) 2 rounds
Rnd 7: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
Rnd 8: sc in all st (18)
Rnd 9: 6 sc, (dec) x3, 6 sc (15) – mark the second dec of this
round as we will refer to this point later. (FIGURE 8)
Rnd 10: sc in all st (15)
Rnd 11: (sc, dec) x5 (10)
Rnd 12-16: sc in all st (10) 5 rounds
Fasten off and weave in the yarn tail – use the invisible
method again. (FIGURES 4-7). Stuff the legs between rounds
1-12 and leave the remaining rounds free of filling.


BODY
(make sure you have completed the arms and legs before
commencing the body)
Use body colour (beige or gold) & a 3.00mm hook
Rnd 1: leave a long yarn tail at the start of your work as we
will need it for sewing the body and the head together. The
yarn tail will need to be on the correct side of your work
(the side that you will see) so use a needle to thread it to
the correct side, (FIGURES 9 & 13). Once you have a tail,
begin with a mr of 6 (6)
Rnd 2: inc in all st (12)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc in the next st) x6 (18)
Rnd 4: working in the BLO, sc in all st (18)
You will now continue to work with double crochets, and
any increases will be a double crochet increase, and any
decreases will be a double crochet decrease.
Rnd 5: 2 dc, inc in the next st, now we will attach the first
arm. Hold the arm against the work, (FIGURE 11), (you want
the arm to be closest to you, and the body work behind the
arm), dc through both sides of the arm and into the next st
of the body to join. Continue working into both the arm and
the body work: dc, inc, dc in the next 2 st. You will now
have the first arm completely joined, (FIGURES10-12). Work
the next stitches into the body piece only: inc in the next st,
dc in the next 2 st, inc in the next st. Now we will join the
second arm. Again, hold the arm against the body work, dc
through both sides of the arm and into the next st of the
body to join, continue: dc in the next st, inc in the next st,
dc in the next 2 st. The second arm should now be joined,
(FIGURE 13). Work the last st in the body only: inc (24)
[Shortened version of round 5: (2 dc, inc in the next st) x6 (24)]
Rnd 6: (3 dc, inc in the next st) x6 (30)
Rnd 7: (4 dc, inc in the next st) x6 (36)

BODY CONTINUED. . .
Rnd 8: (5 dc, inc in the next st) x6 (42)
Rnd 9: (6 dc, inc in the next st) x6 (48)
Rnd 10-12: dc in all st (48) 3 rounds
Rnd 13: (6 dc, dec) x6 (42)
Rnd 14: (5 dc, dec) x6 (36)
Rnd 15: (4 dc, dec) x5, 2 dc, dec. Stop the round here (30)
Flatten your work. You should be at the side of the work (in
line with one of the arms), if you are not, dc additional/or
less stitches to be at the side, whilst maintaining a stitch
count of 30. (FIGURE 14). You will now attach the legs
whilst simultaneously closing the work. Hold the first
leg against the work, making sure the marked stitch with
the curve of the leg is facing inwards towards the inner
body, (FIGURE 15). Dc through both sides of the leg and
into both sides of the body work. Repeat this 3 more
times, so that you have worked 4 dc into both sides of the
legs and body work, (FIGURES 16-18). The first leg is now
attached. Work 6 dc into both sides of the body work
only, (FIGURE 19).

(Cont) Now bring the second leg against the body work,
again, with the marked stitch facing inwards, towards the
inner body. Work the next dc through both sides of the leg
and both sides of the body work, (FIGURE 20). Work the next
3 dc through both the leg and body, (FIGURE 21). You will
now have attached both legs and closed the body work.
Fasten off and weave in the yarn tail.


Assembly
Weave in all yarn tails as you go
Ears to the head: Pin the ears to the head between rounds
5-6 and 11-12, in line with the magic ring. Sew the
ears on, making sure they are slightly curved/ have a
pinched look. (FIGURES 22-26)
Snout to the head: Pin the snout to the the head between
rounds 16-17 and 23-24. The snout should sit centrally
between the ears. Once happy with the positioning,
sew the snout on, adding some stuffing to the snout
just before you close. (FIGURES 23, 26-28)
Embroidered eyes: Using black embroidery thread and a
needle, embroider the eyes to the head, on either side
of the snout. My eyes were embroidered onto round

  1. (FIGURES 22-23, 25-26). Refer below for the
    shaping.
    Body to the head: Using the yarn tail you kept at the start
    of the magic ring of the body, sew the head to the
    body. Line up the remaining FLO stitches of the body
    from round 4, and the FLO stitches of round 29 of the
    head, in order to join the pieces together. (FIGURES 29-30).
    …and that’s it.

FINISH

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